Reflections & Resolutions

As I look back over 2019 I think it will be remembered as somewhat of a defining year in cider’s history. Sure there were many firsts in 2018; Cider Salon, Pommeliers, etc. but it’s the second times, the repeats that really show something is taking hold. 2019 has given us that, plus so much more. CraftCon provided a platform for craft cider makers to learn, share and grow as a community. The Cider Salon mark 2 was bigger and bolder, taking over Bristol for a whole week and Ciderlands brought the world of cider tourism to Herefordshire. Cider clubs have launched all over the country bringing producers in direct contact with their customers to share their stories and passion. The way cider is now talked about, the language and vocabulary used, has leapt forward considerably. “Rethink cider” has become a slogan to promote a change in mentality of what cider is and can be. The tide is changing and 2020 is going to be a great year to ride the cider wave. Fine Cider Friday has been well received, so look out for more weekly videos.

That doesn’t mean that there aren’t still challenges and I think for 2020, there are two main ones that will define the path craft cider takes.

1. Tapping into the public consciousness – as mentioned above there have been huge leaps in language and promotion of craft cider, but it still hasn’t crept into general awareness. The craft producer community is buzzing, as are the pockets of cider clubs and pubs/bars promoting craft cider. In those circles there is huge drive and energy, but if you look at wider impacts, the nut has still not been cracked. With the exception of a few pieces, much of the mainstream media is dominated by the big company ciders. The same is true of social media, there are some great threads, hashtags and posts every day, but the wider public conversations have not been tapped into yet. To really launch cider into the movement and recognition we’ve seen for craft beer then there is more work to be done.

2. Transparency – the ball is now firmly in the craft court with the recent label updates from Bulmers and Strongbow. Granted they’re misleading in some ways, but the main bits are on there; water, concentrate, flavourings, etc. Now it’s up to the craft community to follow suit and allow consumers to see the difference and make an informed choice. There are many who have, but there a whole lot more who haven’t. When I tried to write an article on craft fruit cider for Crafty Nectar last year I found it very challenging to get transparency from many of the producers, leading me to avoid using them in the article.

So what about me personally? Well my perception and frames of reference have definitely changed during 2019. Doing the “Advanced Cider” and “How to Judge Cider” courses with The Ciderologist really challenged me to stay open minded and re-assess my preconceptions of things like ‘quality’. Starting my own cider-making business has also given me a new perspective, the obstacles and decisions I’ve had to make already over the last few months have fostered a new appreciation for the skill and time required to make something I will be proud of.

I am hopeful that 2020 is going to be a defining year for Chapel Sider, but I’m under no illusion that it’s going to be a steep learning curve and long road. Balancing a full time job, family life and starting a business is going to be a challenge and I know I will have to make sacrifices; I don’t think there will be so many cider-related trips in 2020 for example. Plus priorities will need to be managed; I’ve always tried to follow the mantra “work to live, not live to work” and I want to return my focus to that, to make sure I spend quality time with my family. A collision with a lorry on the M6 in December, which I’m still feeling the effects of, gave me a bit of a wake up call on what’s really important. So, I’ll finish with some poetry:

As the solstice passes and the days extend

The sun returns like a long lost friend

Frost retreats its icy fingers

Warmth begins and then it lingers

Buds start to burst upon the tree

Setting new bright colours free

The promise of a new start is in the air

Grasp the nettle without a care.

Wassail, James.

Around the sun in 500 ciders – Adam Wells

The other night I hit a little personal milestone. The 500th new cider or perry I’ve tasted in 2019. It wasn’t something I’d planned from the start of the year, but as the tastings and events and cidery visits snowballed it became a little, dimly-distant hare that I decided to chase. Finding myself in the aftermath of June’s Cider Salon on somewhere around the 300 mark it finally began to crystallise as an achievable target. And on Saturday night I opened, tasted and recorded number 500.

As you’d expect, once I found myself tootling past 450 or so, a little time was spent idly pondering the potential identity of the 500th new taste. Scrattings was spooled; special bottles in the collection were set aside. I had in mind something suitably auspicious and celebratory; a pour from the slightly hazy and roughly-defined “fine” end of the ledger. Perhaps something champagne-method from Eve’s or Find & Foster. Or – we’re well into Christmas, after all – the unctuous decadence of a mouthcoating Eden, Brännland or Saragnat ice cider. I flirted with the notion of an Oliver’s perry and, were there anything from Little Pomona that I hadn’t already ticked off, I dare say I’d have given them hard consideration too.

And, as is so often the case, when one daydreams and muses, and as the nights lengthen, and as the finishing tape not only of the year, but of a challenge – even a silly, self-indulgent challenge – begins to loom, I found myself looking back. Not just at the ciders themselves, but at the visits to cideries, the conversations with producers, the events and tastings and discoveries and question marks.

 This year I have tasted ciders from nineteen different countries and four different continents.There have been dry ciders, sweet ciders and medium ciders; still ciders and sparkling ciders. Ciders whose flavours boom and rumble with their depth of fruit and oak, and ciders whose zest and tang and lightness trill along the uppermost octaves of aroma’s spectrum. There have been ciders which have slumbered in bottle for over a decade and ciders with the scent of harvest still fresh upon them. Keeves and pet-nats and champagne methods; ciders made like Prosecco and perries elevated by bottle conditioning. I have tasted cider apples, cooking apples and eating apples, perry pears by the dozen and – yes – I have tried a handful of fruit ciders, too. (Meaning, inevitably, that about fifty per cent of you will tell me I haven’t actually tried 500 ciders and perries after all).

Taste that many in a year and what becomes most apparent of all is cider’s current state of flux. It’s something that perhaps slips under the fresh optimism of much of the current online conversation and the wonderful, refreshing positivity of the rethink cider hashtag. Yes, it is quite possible that many of the greatest ciders and perries ever made are currently being fermented and bottled. But those dizzy peaks represent the thin end of a convoluted, confused and nascent wedge. It is striking, when one trawls the online world of cider, how large a percentage of apotheosis is dedicated to the same five or six producers. I’ve mentioned at least two or three of them already. More concerning, on digging into the liquid evidence, is that the pre-eminence of this tiny cluster of producers is not due to a savvier social media presence, or well-weaponised marketing tactics, but because, when it comes to cider and perry, the gulf between the best and the rest is simply more pronounced than it is for any other drink.

This is not, I hasten to add, mainly the fault of producers themselves. In the UK – and at least eighty per cent of my 500 new ciders this year have been from the UK – the aspiring cidermaker finds herself trapped between the Scylla and Charybdis of a government with no interest in promoting what ought to be a national crown jewel, and a drinking public with scant notion or understanding of the true identity, potential and quality of real cider and perry. A state of affairs all the sadder because, to all visual intents and purposes, we are the one country in the world in which cider is drunk in any venue with a license to sell alcohol.

I would like this article to strike a more positive tone. I would like to focus solely on what is inspiring and good and uplifting in the world we collectively adore. But the truth, as Arthur Miller has it, is holy, and the truth is that ignoring the flaws and foibles in the world of cider will hamstring its elevation to the position in which we all would wish to see it.

The truth is that for every sip of mind-bending brilliance that I have taken this year there has been another which has been acetic or mouse-tainted or artificially sweetened to cloying excess. The truth is that the state of national orchards is still parlous; that apples in their millions are still left to rot; that growers, faced with the choice between a cash sum for grubbing up trees or the hope that the real cider market will exponentially blossom, are more and more frequently making the financially understandable call. The truth is that educating the public on the soul and finesse and wonder of fine cider and perry is so much harder, so much more thankless than simply dazzling them with short-hand flavourings and gimmickry gussied up as innovation. The truth is that publicans and drinkers who would not think twice about knocking back wine at fourteen per cent alcohol will blanch at any cider over six. The truth is that the average cider encounter is with something made from less than fifty per cent apple juice – largely from concentrate. The truth is that most punters think of real cider, when they think of it at all, as something rough and rank and vinegared and farm-funked that they endured on a holiday to the West Country and hope never to stumble across again.

The most memorable conversation I have had about cider this year was when, chatting to two cidermakers, their talk turned to discussing the number of fully, properly, fermented-all-the-way, absolutely-no-sugar dry ciders that exist in the UK. Their conclusion? That, barring their own, and the tiniest smattering from other producers, there really weren’t any at all. Given the number of ciders labelled “dry”, that assessment sounds controversial. But really, honestly, how many of the ciders you’ve tasted match the level of sweetness their bottle proclaims? “Do you know”, asked Polly Hilton when I visited her orchards in September, “why so many people say they want dry, then actually drink sweet?” It was a genuine, frustration-curdled, non-rhetorical question; knowing I was in the wine industry she hoped I’d have some answer. I didn’t. I still don’t.

Another sad moment came when, tasting a cider with the man who made it, he spoke with regret at how much better he thought it could have been. And this was an excellent cider; dry, complex, sensitive to the apple. “I just wish it could have been what it was,” said its maker. In the face of refusal of his first vintage on account of its potency, he had diluted it to a level that local pubs would more readily accept. Still a wonderful, delicious drink … and yet. Adding to his concerns was a culture that insists on serving cider by the pint or half in unhelpful, straight-sided glasses, and a general snobbery from the UK cider-wonk community in favour of full-bodied, tannic, west country ciders over bright, vivacious, acid-led ciders from cooking and eating apples. The impression was one of hope … of optimism … but of waiting for something that still hasn’t properly happened.To me, this underscores that the largest hurdle real cider has yet to vault is not one of production, but of education. Cider’s paucity of in-depth, authoritative writing is astonishing to someone whose bibulous remit also covers the worlds of wine and whisky. In both of those fields there are blogs – admittedly of varying quality  ad infinitum and shelves that groan beneath the weight of books both specialist and general. Yet the other day, idly browsing the drinks section at Waterstones, I could not see a single book on cider available for sale. As to blogs … well I think it’s telling that cider’s most read is that of a commercial retailer whichposted fewer than a piece a week in November.

The seeds of change are starting, tentatively, to sprout. At the end of last year we had the one-two punch of Gabe Cook and Susannah Forbes both publishing books within a month or two. That has been followed this year with Felix Nash’s Fine Cider, which takes a more specialist, albeit slightly commercially vested direction. Just as encouraging are the fledgling editions of Graftwood and Full Juice Magazines, which will hopefully continue to provide current, informed views of the world of cider throughout the next decade.

But information is still slightly piecemeal. When Pete Brown and Bill Bradshaw published their seminal “World’s Best Ciders” a few years ago now I thought – admittedly more in hope than expectation – that it might form something of a cider writing watershed. Nothing since has matched or built upon its comprehensiveness. As far as blogs are concerned, there is nothing for the reader that offers new content on a daily basis, and those posting with the most regularity tend to be fairly simple, tasting note-focussed sites, dictated by individual preferences and seldom digging deeper into the stories, challenges, personalities and styles that form the building blocks of the drink we all adore. A small handful of individual writers – Ciderzale’s Haritz Rodriguez and this site’s James Finch being two excellent examples – do outstanding work in covering broad ground in an impassioned, informed and even-handed way, but they can’t be expected to carry an entire industry by themselves, or to have the free time to write new material every day.

One noticeable positive trend in 2019 has been an increase in the number of cider articles written by beer journalists. Indeed, as I write, the excellent Emma Inch has announced a new UK cider podcast to launch in 2020. But whilst I am hungry for any new scribblings on the subject of cider, many of these pieces have taken the same “I’ve just discovered cider, and guess what? It’s actually worth drinking” angle. And that’s before we get into the existent perils of cider’s incongruous connubial association with beer in the mind of the British drinker. I was perhaps a little sharp on twitter when I saw an idea mooted for cider to be given an arm of the beer writer’s guild, but I worry that the mental associations already do more harm than good.

But it’s Christmas, and not just Christmas but the approaching dawn of a new decade. If we put aside for a moment the appalling maelstrom of modern British politics (easier said than done, I know) and focus solely on fermented apple juice, there is so much to look forward to in 2020. So much that will be built upon the foundations of the last few years. Ten years ago, in December 2009, not only was the information this article asks for unavailable, but it seemed inconceivable that it ever would be. The last decade has seen an astonishing, unparalleled leap in the consideration of cider at the highest tier of its quality. Little Pomona, Find and Foster, Pilton, Chalkdown, Starvecrow, Pang Valley, Caledonian Cider Co and Brännland are just a small handful of the producers I have been inspired by in the last few years who didn’t exist in 2009. Experimentation in styles – not simply flavourings – has increased; apple and pear varieties are more likely to be listed and recognised; vigneron-level respect for fruit more likely to be demonstrated than it was at the dusk of the ‘noughties. This decade has seen cider championed more and more vociferously by the likes of Forbes and Brown and Cook and it has made the rethink cider movement possible. 

So many online battles have been fought over what cider isn’t and can’t be and shouldn’t be. What I hope this article stands for is what cider is. Can be. Will be. And, in the end, that hope influenced my 500th new cider of 2019 more than anything else. It came from Ross-on-Wye, the place I consider the most important cidery in the world, and was a simple, no-frills, whole-juice, bone-dry cider from the White Norman apple. A variety that barely existsoutside of the Johnsons’ farm; a page from a lost book that almost nobody will have heard of, that will likely never be a Dabinett or a Foxwhelp or a Kingston Black, but has been kept alive by the tree-tenders of Peterstow.

It has been kept alive because it is a part of our global heritage. Because it is a vital strand in bio-diversity’s tapestry. Because it is a variety worth making into cider. Worth talking aboutand drinking and considering and celebrating and preserving. Because the world, whether most people know it or not, would be the poorer for its loss. Because it encapsulates, to me, the essence of why we give a damn. 

Oh … and because it’s delicious.

With that last thought, and the memory of its taste still fresh, let me wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year, lit by the apple-tinted glow of golden fire.

 

 

 

Ross Cider Festival 2019

“One more song, one more song,” the chants filled the air, the atmosphere pulsing with excitement. The coloured lights flickered across the ceiling, occasional shimmers of gold reflected off the crowd from a certain bold jacket (you know who you are). You could be forgiven for assuming that I’m at an arena but I’m not… this is the closing night of Ross Cider Festival being rocked by ‘Burnside’. Hidden away in an idyllic Herefordshire valley this annual event captures the heart of a small (by festival standards) but dedicated and extremely friendly crowd. My first visit with family and friends in tow certainly increased our love for Broome Farm and cemented what will from now on be our annual pilgrimage.
As I sat in the main barn the following morning listening to Floaty & Special, whilst eating one last amazing stone baked pizza, I reflected on what was a marvellous weekend.
Thursday’s Cider Club was the perfect start, with Haritz (aka Ciderzale) leading us on a wonderful Basque sidra journey. Acid led Sagardo naturala’s (natural ciders), a marvellous sparkling sagardo ararduna (mellow cider) and a sublime sidra de postre (dessert cider). This was followed by Albert sharing 6 of Ross Ciders’ latest releases including the hotly anticipated Raison D’Etre 2017 and Pet Nat, both of which if you haven’t tried yet, I can assure you are something very special.
Friday was the main arrival day, and despite an already bustling site, the crowds kept coming. The sun was shining, the ciders were flowing, the atmosphere was fantastic. Thanks to a cidermakers slot, I had the privilege of sharing some of my own creations with some of the other cider makers and festival goers in attendance. Beardspoon, Brennans, Naked Cider and Four Acres Estate to name a few. It was humbling to share and receive honest feedback. It was also fun to do a bit of an experiment with Albert, comparing Dabinett ciders both made from Ross Cider apples. Same juice, from the same apples, from the same orchards, the only difference being that I took some home last year and fermented it in Lincolnshire. There was a definite difference and I still can’t figure out exactly why. The evening of music and sharing cider with friends new and old passed by too quickly.
If Friday was cidery heaven then Saturday was euphoria. Firstly it saw the arrival of 10 different cider makers, each sharing their own creations. I could have happily spent hours in the cider barn and I did, discovering new producers and their creations as well as reacquainting myself with past favourites. A few stand outs for me:
1.      Bartestree Cider: Along Came A Cider, a keeved, pure juice, bottle conditioned, medium cider. Sumptuous natural sweetness.
2.      Greggs Pit: 2017 Brown Snout, Chisel Jersey & White Close Pippin. A manifestation of pure blending skill to create an outstanding cider.
3.      Four Acres Estate: méthode champenoise whiskey barrel aged. It was smokin!
4.      Palmers Upland Cyder: Rioja Cask. Wood, red wine and tannic apples, what’s not to love.
Later a further unofficial makers share was organised in the orchard. Sitting with some of the UK’s best craft producers sharing and chewing the fat was inspiring. Another evening of festivities passed by culminating in joining the chant for “one more song”.
In between all this there was wonderful food from Broome Farm Kitchen and orchard raised lamb. A morning trip to the local butterfly farm with the family, glitter face painting, too many goes on the tombola, fun with the fair games and a stealthy Indy (cider dog) stealing my bed. Can’t wait for next year. Wassail.

The ‘C’ Word

I have this flight of fancy, I walk into a pub and I ask “Do you have any ciders?” The response I get overwhelms me, “Certainly sir (it’s a very polite flight), we have traditional ciders, fruit ciders; both on draught and bottle, full juice and concentrate, single variety and blends. We’ve also got ice cider and a good selection of Perries.” Chances are if you live in Bristol, Manchester and maybe London, there might be a few establishments that could respond in a similar fashion to that. For the rest of us and particularly on my side of the Midlands (East) there is no chance. The reality for most of us if we say the ‘C’ word the response we can expect is “We’ve got a fruit cider and an apple one on tap and a few other fruit ones in bottle”. As I’ve encountered recently, sometimes they only have a fruit one on tap. They may also have no idea how they’re made or what they’re made from.

Depending on your age you will have your own impression of what cider is. Perhaps it’s of very sweet and fruity combination flavours, or a large cheap plastic bottle of strong abv. Maybe you recall holidays in the south-west where local scrumpy was purchased and ended in some sort of headache due to the infrequency of consumption and the strength of the offering. Or you may have some fondness for Babycham (which I was surprised to see you can still get).

Why am I getting you to reminisce potentially negative memories of cider? I hear you ask. Well what I’m actually trying to highlight is the variation of those memories. You see cider has become a multifaceted beverage and that position presents both opportunity and hindrance. 

It’s a hindrance because it’s spread itself a bit thin and that’s resulted in mixed views and misconceptions. Revisiting those memories again highlights how people can get a tainted view of cider from an encounter with one facet and close themselves off to the chance of more. Basing your opinion of such a diverse drink on one particular encounter means you’re missing out.

That brings me on to the opportunity because no other drink can compete across such a broad spectrum. Cider can compete with and be drunk like wine, beer, alcopops and in some cases sipped like a spirit. None of the aforementioned can do all that, wine and beer can do it to a certain extent but not to the breadth of cider. That’s something to be celebrated, something to embrace. 

So my point is this, you and I may not like all ciders, we may not like the way some ciders are made or the ingredients in them. However I recognise that for cider to continue to grow, it needs to appeal to as many consumers as possible, and that means acknowledging all its manifestations as part of a wider goal. Quality and provenance will win out in the end I have no doubt, but consumers need to go on the journey from dark fruits to real fruit.  My friends sometimes ask me why as the ‘Cider Critic’ I’m not more critical in my posts and articles. My view is that as an ambassador for the beverage I’m like a tour guide, pointing out the good landmarks. Focusing on the negatives only serves to put off the tourists that I want to come back again and again. 

Cider Salon 2019 sneak preview!

With this year’s Cider Salon less than a week away and the fringe events starting tomorrow, I thought I’d give you a sneak preview of three fantastic creations to look out for at the Salon itself. Bear in mind there’s 20 producers, pouring 60 creations, so pace yourself but make sure you get in quick…it’s only two hours and I ran out of time last year.

First up: Ganley and Naish –  4.6%

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This was pressed back in 2016 and is a blend of Yarlington Mill and Ashton Brown Jersey from an old low nitrogen orchard. The fermentation lasted a whole 12 months before being bottled in May 2018. Andy himself will be at the Salon pouring this one, so be sure to ask him all about it…it’s been over two years in the making.

It pours a hazy light amber colour, the aroma is woody, with scents of tobacco. There’s medicinal qualities in there as well as some hints of barnyard from those rich tannic apples. There is almost zero acidity in the taste and a gentle mellow bitterness from the tannins which gives the mouth feel a robust level of astringency. The finish has a very subtle sweetness that peaks through as a fruity little hit. A wonderful step into “fine cider” for Andy and a brilliant encapsulation of what Somerset cider is all about. 

Second: Pilton – Pomme Pomme 4.8% (Keeved Cider & Quince)

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Martin Berkley doesn’t really need an introduction, being one of the creators of the Cider Salon (along with Tom Oliver). This creation however adds a new ingredient to the Pilton party; Quince…and what an addition it is. Make sure you ask Martin how he managed to blend the tart astringency of the quince with the natural sweetness of his keeved cider to create perfect harmony.

It is a striking crystal clear gold colour with scents of tropical fruit (think guava and cantaloupe) along with vanilla, caramel and a hint of apricot. In the initial taste there is a slight acidity with light citrus notes, this then flows into that wonderful keeved sweetness that reminds you of biting into a sweet apple full of rich apple skin. The finish brings with it that quince astringency which dries the sides of your mouth with a tinge of bitterness, leaving you craving for another sip. Hats off to Martin, this is a masterpiece. 

Third: Find & Foster – Woodrow, Vintage 2018 5.5%

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Polly and Mat have stormed onto the fine cider scene with their exquisite ciders crafted from some of Devon’s forgotten orchards. Woodrow orchard is hundreds of years old with only a few bittersweet cider apple trees still standing. This cider was bottled before the fermentation had finished to capture some natural bubbles. In the interest of full transparency, I’m not 100% sure Polly and Mat will be pouring this one as they haven’t confirmed, but even if they aren’t, they will be bringing some other phenomenal ciders…look out for the Russet.

In the glass the Woodrow blend is a radiant amber colour with a slight haze. It smells like apple pie along with raisin and and some tannic phenolics that gove a woody note. It’s got a bold fizz that dissipates quickly leaving a ring of delicate bubbles in the glass. The initial taste is one of gentle acidity, then followed by an astringency that starts to dry the sides of your mouth and tongue. The finish is natural sweetness and essence of pure apple. It is glorious!

I hope that’s given you a little insight into the quality and craftsmanship you will experience over the next week. There are so many other amazing producers attending (such as Little Pomona, Tom Oliver, Jaanihanso, Kentish Pip, Hawkes, Once Upon a Tree, Brännland…I could just name them all to be honest), all of whom will be bringing fantastic drinks.

If you see me wandering around the Salon, make sure you say hello. Wassail.

US delights from The Cider Salon 2018

With this years Cider Salon in Bristol just over two weeks away, I thought it was time I let you all know about some wonderful creations from across the pond, that I was lucky enough to get samples of at last years event. Now the Salon isn’t just about the ciders, it’s also an opportunity to meet and talk to the makers, which is a fantastic chance to hear the real stories behind their creations and hear the passion they have for their craft.

Ryan Burk – Angry Orchard

First up is ‘Edu’ from Ryan Burk of Angry Orchard, a homage to a friend from Asturias. The bottle describes it as a complex cider made from bittersweet and sharp apples, taking its cues from Spanish cider makers. Ryan was sharing this cider along with his “Understood in Motion” collaboration with Tom Oliver, and another, but embarrassingly I can’t recall…it has been nearly a year…

3F6AA9B4-ED9D-45CF-8C50-D52E32698185Angry Orchard Edu 6.9%

Popping the crown cap I’m greeted by green apple and slight citrus aromas and there’s some volatile acidity in there too. It pours a dark straw colour with a satisfying level of fizz. The initial taste is of both acidity and tannin bitterness, but in harmony and balance. It has a sour crispness that cleanses the palate, but then the finish is something of a journey; vanilla, candy floss, dipped (almost toffee) apple flowing into a residual subtle woody smoke at the end. 

It is glorious in so many ways. I’ve tried many sidras over the years and this really captures their signature, but then goes on to add a marvellous twist. I’m really looking forward to what Ryan brings over this year.

Eleanor & Albert Léger – Eden specialty Ciders

The next two are from Eden Speciality Cider, who are based in Vermont. Firstly Eleanor and Albert are lovely people, so passionate about what they make, how they make it and wanting to share it. As well as the two below, they had a very limited Cellar Series: #2 The Falstaff, aged for 6 years in French Oak Barrels. Why am I mentioning it? Because it was exquisite and if they bring anything like it this year… make sure you grab a taste.

The Dry Heritage (below) is bottle conditioned, hand disgorged and naturally sparkling. This is the embodiment of fine cider; time, terroir and skill.  Made from local heirloom and tannic apples (such as Kingston Black, Mcintosh, Roxbury Russet & Dabinett), it’s got a smidge of their ice cider for a lovely residual sweetness.

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The colour is a rich golden straw colour, the aroma reminiscent of white wine; full of green apple, floral scents and tropical fruits. It has an intense fizz which dissipates quickly and the initial taste is one dominated by acidity. It’s light, crisp and those tropical fruit notes start to touch the palate. Subtle velvety and silky tannins come through that lead to an astringent finish. Wonderful.

Third and final is Eden’s Heirloom Blend Ice Cider, which is made from a blend of traditional and heirloom apple varieties all grown in Vermont, including, Empire, Macintosh, Russet (for full bodied sweetness), Caville Blanc (for acidity & citrus notes) Ashmead’s Kernel (natural tannin structure). It’s clear thought, time and skilful blending have more than gone into this one.

1F5EEB5F-54D2-4543-A403-9FBB6003DCBDEden Ice Cider – Heirloom blend

It’s a deep rich amber colour with aromas of candied fruit, apricots and brandy. It smells alcoholic which I think is coming from the phenolics of those tannic heirloom varieties. The texture is syrupy  and the taste starts with a slight acidity which leads into intense sweetness. There is pure essence of apple along with caramel. It is absolutely sumptuous.

If those three don’t whet your appetite enough, look out next week for my three ciders to try at this year’s salon from three UK producers.

 

Downside Special Reserve Perry 2017

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I’ve written about Paul Ross’s Perry before for Crafty Nectar and it was a marvellous drink. This creation of his however takes it up a notch he answered a few of my questions to reveal how this exceptional fine perry was created.

Paul likes to use a combination of British and French perry pears and this bottle is no exception with Plant de Blanc, Antricotin, Hendre Huffcap, Thorn and Rock varieties.  

The process is as complex as the drink; Paul explained how picking time is critical to ensure maximum tannin and acid and how milling and maceration duration is different by variety. The fermentation is low temperature and is followed by a complicated schedule of racking and blending. Two things stand out; time and passion,and Paul gives plenty of both. As Paul says, the emphasis with all his perries is “fruit concentration and quality, excellent cellaring practices and bold blend”. If you have the chance to taste this perry you will see how the quality and boldness shine through like a beacon. 

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Pulling the cork I’m greeted by a spirit like smell of lemon balm and citrus peel. You can smell that it’s a stronger drink and at 8.2% it seems more like wine than perry.

I pour into a wine glass and the initial taste is filled with fresh floral notes, including elderflower with a background of acidity. Then the citrus taste comes in, intense at first but then starts to mellow, to me it has a hint of orange or mandarin. The finish is smack in the middle, with a little sweetness and a little dryness but it’s not too astringent. It goes down so smoothly, like a crisp white wine and with those citrus notes it is an absolute gem to pair with fish and seafood. 

Paul explained that “the key to this perry was identifying what each variety had to offer and using that as a basis for what could be achieved. The result is a really fresh, vibrant perry with well-rounded pear tannins in the aftertaste”. 

I couldn’t put it better myself.

Check out Downside’s website at: https://m.facebook.com/downsideperry/